Excursion to Yakushima: At the heart of Princess Mononoke Island
Tale of an off-the-beaten-track adventure in Japan!
Many visitors to Japan share the same desire when visiting the country: to "get off the beaten track".
While the classics of Tokyo, Kyoto and Hiroshima are still the stuff of dreams and must-sees, many people want to discover a more rural Japan, and immerse themselves in the heart of Japanese culture. For a privileged encounter with a more intimate Japan, to meet the locals and experience Japanese life, excursions are an excellent way to travel!
Solo, with friends or family, excursions offer the opportunity to immerse yourself in a Japan that's off the beaten track for a few days. Departing from the country's major cities, excursions take you to remote locations for authentic experiences and memorable souvenirs. Cycle around Lake Biwa in Kyoto or around the 5 lakes of majestic Mount Fuji, take a roadtrip by car to the mystical island of Yakushima or go on the famous Shikoku pilgrimage... there's bound to be an excursion to suit you! Exceptional destinations, made easy to reach thanks to our excursions.
Lorenzo, tour and excursion designer at Japan Experience, went to Yakushima Island to create and test this adventure. Today, he takes us on a journey to the very end of Japan... Here's his account!
Find out more about our Yakushima excursion!
Day 1: Encounter with monkeys and secret sanctuaries
"It's 7.45am in Kagoshima, the starting town for this tour, and I catch the first speedboat to Yakushima. The trip is pretty quick, only 2 hours, and time flies once you're on board. With the splendid weather, I settle in close to the windows, where the view is sumptuous. The boat passes many lush islands, and you wonder on which one our adventure will begin! "
At 12.30 pm, the boat finally docks in Yakushima.
Freshly landed on the island, I stop for lunch at one of the local restaurants near the port. I opt for a Yakushima specialty: flying fish ! Served freshly caught and cooked in a delicious bento, I'm in for a treat.
I decide to take a short digestive walk to discover the surrounding area, such as the verdant Yaku-jinja shrine, before picking up my rental car, which will be my most faithful companion for the next few days. I was a little apprehensive about driving for the first time. In Japan, you drive on the left and all the controls are also reversed, but once you've settled behind the wheel and after a few minutes' practice, you quickly get used to it!
The adventure can begin!
Yakushima Island is an unspoilt paradise. Over 40% of the island is actually a national park , which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. A main road circles the island, skirting the coast, and a few small mountain roads lead inland. The heart of the island, however, can only be explored on foot. The tour takes me to my first stop, the Yahazudake Shrine, and immediately immerses us in the very essence of Yakushima Island.
A horde of monkeys
On the way, we pass a number of magnificent beaches, which I recommend for a swim or sunbathing break, weather permitting. In late November, I choose to enjoy the scenery from the car, even though the weather is still mild. I quickly leave the main road for a more winding path, climbing a little higher into the mountains, and some companions soon join me. On the road, hordes of monkeys block the way. The sight is quite impressive, and I suddenly feel as if I've been transported to a fantasy world. Animals are very present on this densely wooded island, and I soon realize that it's not uncommon to come across Japanese macaques or deer on the side of the road. However friendly they may seem, they are wild animals. We therefore advise you not to go hunting for Ouisticrams to fill your Pokédex!
Yahazudake Shrine
The entrance to this remote shrine is probably one of the most beautiful I saw on my trip. Its authentic red torii (gateway to a Shinto shrine) sits majestically. Behind it, a resplendent backdrop unfolds. The blue of the Pacific Ocean meets that of the sky in a lovely gradation, blending with the autumn leaves of the rounded mountains like an etching. Just past the torii, a staircase descends vertically into the depths of the mountain to sea level. On the way to this well-hidden sanctuary, I feel as if I've stumbled into the lair of a nature deity, whom my presence is likely to awaken!
The peaceful sound of the ocean on the horizon, together with the murmur of animals, leads me to believe that the macaques that have remained latent are discreetly watching me descend. The descent is fairly easy, and the well-marked path with its stone steps confirms that the sanctuary does see more than one stray visitor.
Reaching the water's edge, I discover the sanctuary sunken into the damp cave, condensation dripping down the walls and moss taking over. With the sound of waves crashing on the rocks in the distance, I'm thrown straight into an imaginary world, straight out of a Japanese fantasy isekai. I can't help but take time to contemplate the magical beauty of this place and how lucky I am to be here.
In November, the sun sets early, and I choose to continue on my way to the Isso lighthouse to regain some height, before heading back to the town of Yoshida. There's a magnificent observation point where you can enjoy the sunset over the ocean.
Around 6pm, I finally reach my hotel for a well-deserved rest. Facing a large white sandy beach, I'm warmly welcomed in a comfortable building where a traditional Japanese meal is already waiting for me at the table.
Day 2: Waterfalls and natural onsens
On the morning of this second day, the rain has fallen overnight and the still somewhat shady sky is slowly clearing. Today, I'm off to the Yokogawa Valley, one of the largest on the island. With its dense vegetation, emerald streams and waterfalls leading to crystal-clear lakes, it exudes a peaceful, unreal atmosphere. I continue my adventure in this almost imaginary land, with a visit to a succession of waterfalls in the south-east of the island. Over 60m high, the Senpiro waterfall is the largest and most massive of them all.
At this hour of the morning, only the sound of water and the murmur of wildlife accompany me on my walk. The fresh early-morning breeze caresses my face and I feel right at home here. I continue my stroll, descending the mountain as close as possible to the water, until I reach a bridge. The view is breathtaking! Sandwiched between two green mountains, the sea can be seen in the distance, with the huge waterfalls still at my back. The climb back up is more difficult than I'd imagined, as the path's steps are high. I now understand the usefulness of the pilgrim's sticks provided at the entrance to the site. I highly recommend borrowing one on arrival!
As I get back on the road, I notice the many benches facing the sea here and there, encouraging me to stop for a few moments to enjoy the view of the ocean or a pretty temple. For lunch, I stop at a small soba restaurant, which I highly recommend, not only for its soba but also for its tempura don! The atmosphere is authentically Japanese: you eat seated directly on the floor.
In the afternoon, I visit the Banyan Trees, tall trees whose long branches fall to the ground like curtains of vegetation, often filled with insects and large spiders (for those who like them!). Then I decide to spend some quality time at a brand-new experience, a natural open-air onsen by the sea. These onsens are linked to the tide and therefore only accessible for a handful of hours during the day, but the wait is well worth it! Set right on the rocks, the boiling water relaxes numb bodies in a breathtaking panorama!
Day 3: In the heart of the Yakushima forest
This third day of discovery is reserved entirely for what is surely the island's most popular attraction, the Yakushima wooded mountain hike. I meet Maxime, my Japan Experience guide for the day, who will lead me on this 8-hour must-do tour. Maxime is an incredible person, who left everything behind to settle on Yakushima Island ten years ago, and now knows the area like the back of his hand.
No sooner had we entered the thick forest together than I was struck by the striking resemblance to Studio Ghibli's work. In a fraction of a second, I'm plunged into a fairytale world. The scenery all around me, the gentle din of the flora and the wind peacefully stirring the leaves of the trees, give me the impression that at any moment I could come face to face with a kodama, a forest spirit hidden behind a huge root. These thousand-year-old cedars called Yakusugi, whose massive trunks are covered in moss, give the forest an ancient, mystical atmosphere. The hike with Maxime is great, as I learn more about the forest, but also about the whole island of Yakushima, its history and all the legends that surround it. He naturally guides me to places I might like, like this huge heart-shaped stump. It's so big you can walk inside - there's even a little altar hidden inside.
By mid-day, we reach the 1936-metre summit, finally discovering an unobstructed view of the blue sky and green peaks all around us. The return journey is peaceful, punctuated by birdsong. If you're attentive enough, you'll undoubtedly spot groups of Japanese macaques, and with a bit of luck even shika, Japanese deer, some with impressive antlers.
Tomorrow, I'll be taking the ferry back to Kyushu, feeling as though I've just returned to civilization. Yakushima is a timeless escapade, deep in Japanese culture and nature.
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