Night trains in Japan 寝台列車
miles of sleep
There is only one night train left in Japan: the Sunrise Express, connecting Tokyo to Takamatsu and Izumoshi. All historic night train connections have been scrapped in favor of the Shinkansen bullet train. However, the popularity of "Cruise Train" is giving a second wind to this ancient means of transport!
Interior of a Sunrise Express night train cabin, Okayama Station.
Masakazu Matsumoto
In the country of high-speed trains, why not try the experience of the night train like in the good old days? The Japanese night trains are not means of transport like the others, because we are in Japan and this subject is always approached seriously for the comfort of the user.
Trains in Japan: from essential to luxury
It is currently a pivotal time in the world of rail travel, between classic overnight trains and a new system of luxury tourist travel spanning several days. Since the opening of the Kyushu Shinkansen in 2011 and that of Hokkaido in 2016, night trains in Japan have unfortunately almost all been abolished. Competition with low-cost domestic flights and the development of night bus connections between major cities are partly the cause of the disappearance of these trains.
Read: Taking the night bus in Japan
Today the night train is no longer the preferred means of transport, although accessible to all to travel quickly between the main major cities of Japan. The overnight train has transformed into a luxury rail cruise that offers hotel comfort, gourmet dining, and sightseeing. In 2013, the Seven Stars cruise train of JR Kyushu launched the concept, which was taken up four years later by the Train Suite Shikishima of JR East. The latter takes you from Tokyo to Hokkaido in absolute luxury. The Twilight Express (the name of the old Osaka-Sapporo night train) Mizukaze takes a privileged few from Osaka to Shimonoseki via Hiroshima or all along the Sea of Japan, in luxurious suites.
Limited places on board, but some are reserved for foreign travelers. Plus, save now because it will cost you several thousand dollars instead!
The last night train: Sunrise Express
The last night train still in regular service in Japan is the Sunrise Express. It is also the modern night train called train-hotel, for its comfort. Reservations are always required at a Midori no madoguchi counter.
This train consists of two trainsets, Sunrise Izumo and Seto. It travels from Tokyo to Okayama and then splits into two trains: one goes to Izumoshi (Shimane Prefecture) and the other goes to Takamatsu (Kagawa Prefecture on Shikoku Island). This train is very popular with the Japanese because it departs Tokyo at 10 pm, which is much later than the last flights to the province. The next day, the arrival at Izumoshi is at 9:58 am, Takamatsu at 7:27 am. Convenient schedules to save time after work! In the other direction, departing from Izumoshi is at 6:55 pm and from Takamatsu at 9:26 pm, arriving in Tokyo at 7:08 am the next morning, allowing you to fully enjoy a day in the capital.
Read also: The Guntû floating hotel
Sleeping on a train: a comfortable night
The particularity of the Sunrise Express is to have individual cabins. It sweeps away the image of old bunk bunks in an overheated compartment with no privacy. 118 cabins are available, all of which can be closed with a secret code. There are several categories of cabins:
- Category A "Single Deluxe", offers spacious cabins with desk and washbasin, with free access to the shower cubicle.
- Category B "Sunrise Twin", with two beds side by side, Single twin with two bunk beds for traveling as a couple or with friends.
- Category B is "single or solo" which is a small cabin for a single person.
All cabins are provided with a pillow, blanket, pajamas ( yukata ), electrical outlet, alarm clock, radio, slippers, and individual heating. There is a shower cabin in cars 3 and 10. You need to buy the access card to a machine for 320 yen (2.50€). Shower gel and shampoo are available, just bring your towel. You have 6 minutes of hot water, indicated on a meter, but with the possibility of stopping at any time. The total time is limited to half an hour. To have tried it is quite enough to wash you well. The trickiest thing is to stay upright without slipping because of the movements of the train!
If you travel by the Japan Rail Pass, you must add the price of the sleeper and the reservation for a limited express (9,720 yen or $84/76€ for category B solo). For those who want to save money and live another Japanese experience, you can try the Nobinobi category: it is a space where you sleep on a carpeted floor with a half partition that separates you from the neighbor and a small blanket to arrangement. Can be used with the JR Pass at no extra charge.
A sleepless night or a peaceful night?
Good to know before boarding, on this train, there is no bar car or service onboard like in the Shinkansen. So plan what you need for the trip. A vending machine for drinks is installed on each train. A mini lounge area is set up if you are in a group, to spend time together!
To discover: The Hokutosei Hotel Train
After you have settled into your cabin, the chef de train comes to check you, then you can rest until the next morning. Shortly before arriving in Okayama at 6:30 am, an announcement will wake you up. For the destination of Takamatsu, we should soon prepare to descend past the large Seto bridge. Enjoy the beautiful scenery of the quietly lying Seto Inland Sea, a special moment for everyone. For the destination of Izumoshi, there is still a little travel time, when you see Lake Shido, it will soon be the arrival in Izumoshi.
