Along Japan’s Southern Seas: a trip with the Setouchi Area Regional Pass!
The Setouchi Region is a coastal region that crosses into multiple islands of Japan, including Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu. This lends to a rich diversity in culture and attractions that are accessible via the Setouchi Area Regional Pass!
The name and region of Setouchi are defined by the existence of the Seto Inland Sea (瀬戸内海). Rich in coastal cities, numerous visitable islands, delicious seafood, a temperate climate, and gorgeous scenery, this region, made up of the southern portion of the main island of Honshu, the inner portion of Shikoku, and the upper area of the island of Kyushu, is ripe for discovery with the JR West Setouchi Area Regional Pass!
We’ll be looking at some of the region’s most vibrant destinations of Osaka, Okayama, Hiroshima, Shodoshima, Matsuyama, and Fukuoka in order to give an overview of the amazing experiences that await around Japan’s inland coast!
Osaka- Japan’s gateway to the world
The largest city in Kansai is no stranger to international attention. Though it is often seen as a “second-city” to the capital city of Tokyo, no-one takes this moniker with as much zeal and as much a challenge as the people of Osaka.
As artistic as it is lively, Osaka is a major of hub for culture, chosen as the site for Japanese artist Taro Okamoto’s Tower of the Sun (太陽の塔) and the eclectic museum where it is currently located.
The iconic, yet cryptically designed, sculpture was erected for the Expo ‘70, the World’s Fair held in 1970 that was especially noted for its display of unique, often dubbed “avant garde,” artwork. Okamoto’s Tower of the Sun has become the most recognizable of such and has evolved into a symbol of the city of Osaka as a whole.
The Tower of the Sun Museum is actually located within the Expo ‘70 Commemorative Park, and aside from the museum, there are a medley of different attractions and facilities for visitors to go and see. Throughout the park many flower varieties and there is also a Japanese-style garden where tea ceremonies are often held.
The next World Expo is actually set to take place in Osaka once again in 2025, 55 years after the original. Visiting the Commemorative Park will be a great way to commemorate both the city’s past and future.
Famous for its street food culture, visitors ought to try Osaka’s signature Okonomiyaki, a type of savory cooked batter dish mixed with cabbage and other toppings like meat and vegetables. With a medley of different shops operating in the bustling Dotonbori district and all around other parts of the city, it’s a satiating dish that’s easy to personalize, as its name, meaning “as you like it,” implies.
Okayama- Setouchi’s gateway to history
An hour from Osaka via the Sanyo Shinkansen is Okayama City, the capital of the prefecture of the same name. The prefecture’s southern border is completely made up of Seto Inland Sea coastline and exists right above the island of Shikoku.
In Okayama City, the Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter exists as a gateway back in time. This mix of both commercial and residential areas consists of traditional buildings that were constructed during the Edo and Meiji Periods. Running through the district is the Kurashiki Canal, where riverboats can be ridden, providing a relaxing way to do sightseeing. There are also a number of museums within the district, including the Ohara Museum of Art, which is actually the first modern art museum to have been opened in Japan.
Another jewel of Setouchi’s cultural attractions is that of Okayama’s Koraku-en, one of the three great gardens of Japan alongside Kenroku-en in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, and Kairaku-en in Mito, Ibaraki Prefecture. Korakuen is said to embody the strength and spirit of the Samurai and Daimyo whose power reigned just over 300 years ago, when the garden was first created.
At the center of the garden is the Enyo-tei House, which were originally erected as a living quarters. A variety of flowers and foliage go on for acres and even a traditional Noh performance art theater can be found in the garden as well.
Okayama’s long coastline provides it with some very rich seafood, and the prefecture’s signature dish is that of barazushi. The name translates to “scattered sushi,” and consists of a variety of seafood and vegetables placed on top of sushi rice. It’s a very colorful dish with a medley of different textures and flavors that is as nice to eat as it is to look at!
Hiroshima- Setouchi’s symbol of peace
The city of Hiroshima carries with it a heavy history, but a prospective future as a symbol of peace. The site of the world’s first ever nuclear attack at the end of World War II, the event is commemorated at the Peace Memorial Park, constructed within an open field that was created after the bombing but that was previously the city’s primary commercial area.
The park itself is centered around the main, arch-shaped memorial where the annual Peace Memorial Ceremony is held.
Also on the Peace Memorial Park grounds is the easily recognizable A-Bomb Dome, the building closest to the blast epicenter that managed to maintain its base structure. The city of Hiroshima has chosen to maintain the condition of the building after the blast as a reminder of that day, but also a symbol of progress and peace.
Going further back in Hiroshima’s history by a few hundred years, the iconic Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima is accessible via ferry that is covered by the Setouchi Area Pass. This shrine is particularly noted for its iconic torii gate that appears to be floating on the water and is an especially striking scene during sunset when the surroundings glow. The actual shrine itself is a treat with its elaborate treasure room and main buildings that also appear to float during high tide.
Much like Osaka, Hiroshima is also strongly associated with Okonomiyaki, though the rendition found here is noted for its more layered structure and addition of grilled soba noodles. Be sure to try both versions to compare and contrast, but be prepared to take sides if you have a preference!
Shodoshima- A unique destination in the middle of the Seto Inland Sea
The Setouchi Area Pass allows you to make a stop at Shodoshima, which exists within the Setouchi Inland Sea between Honshu and Shikoku. The island is accessible on the pass via ferry to the port of Tonosho.
Shodoshima is one of the most unique places in Japan, harboring a unique geography and agricultural character. The island is famous for its picturesque beaches and the "Angel Road," a sandbar that connects Shodoshima to three smaller islands, is a one-of-a-kind sight that makes for a great walk.
Another great location for scenery is that of the Nakayama Town Senmaida Rice Paddies. Senmaida in Japanese means “one thousand rice paddies,” in reference to the collection of layered rice paddies in one area, creating a unique geometric design in the landscape. This scenery is especially beautiful during spring, when the rice paddies are first filled with water and the sun reflects in the paddies.
Just as awe-inspiring on Shodoshima as the natural landscape is the wildlife, and one of the best places to witness it is Choshikei Monkey Park. Home to around 800 Japanese Macaques, visitors can also purchase food to feed the animals. Also in the park is an observation post that gives a full view of the surroundings on the island.
Shodoshima is also home to a unique crop typically not associated with Japan; olives! These are found in great quantity and quality on Shodoshima. Taste and see these tasty morsels at places like Shodoshima Olive Park, a unique theme park centered around the island’s signature crop.
Matsuyama- Shikoku’s center of history and culture
Touching ground on Shikoku itself brings us to Matsuyama, the capital city of Ehime Prefecture and the largest city on the island. Shikoku itself is a popular destination for Japanese people looking to engage in domestic travel, home to a unique culture influenced by the seas surrounding it and holding a strong relevance to traditional Japanese spirituality.
On Shikoku, visitors can engage in the 88 Temple Pilgrimage, known as the Henro. Eight of these temples can be found in Matsuyama, all of which date back to the 8th century AD. Out of these eight, the most celebrated by travelers and locals alike is Iwaya-ji Temple. Located within a gorge, it is seamlessly intertwined with the surrounding nature that is as much of a site to behold as the temple structures themselves. The temple priest’s main dwellings are constructed right into the cliffside. The temple is especially beautiful during wintertime when snow is scattered around the grounds.
Also extending deep into Matsuyama’s history is Dogo Onsen, the oldest hot spring house in all of Japan, found in historical records going back over 1,000 years. The onsen holds a powerful presence within the city, existing on the corner of a popular street and illuminated with colorful lights at night.
Fans of the Studio Ghibili film, Spirited Away, will find delight in knowing that Dogo Onsen served as the inspiration for the onsen owned by the character Yubaba.
Moving into the interior, the baths are designed in an elegant, very traditional manner, with a central bath built around a sculpted fountain. Guests can relax and enjoy the history of this storied institution that has served Japanese royalty, and the people of Ehime, for centuries.
After a bath at Dogo Onsen, be sure to indulge in Ehime’s prized mikan oranges, a staple fruit of the region that is well-regarded for its complex, yet bright sweetness.
Much of the proliferation of these fruits is due to Ehime’s subtropical, high precipitation climate that sees fairly consistent warmth throughout the year. The fruit is so synonymous with the city and prefecture as a whole that Ehime’s mascot is a dog with a design based on a mikan orange named “Mikyan.”
Fukuoka - The urban metropolis of Kyushu
The most southern island of mainland Japan is Kyushu. In Japanese, the name means “nine states,” though nowadays it comprises seven prefectures. The largest one is Fukuoka, and the largest city on the island is the capital of this prefecture, Fukuoka City.
A major hub for art and culture, Fukuoka is home to TeamLab Forest, a new exhibit created by the TeamLab group, famous for their Borderless and Planets exhibits in Tokyo. Just like the popular Tokyo attractions, TeamLab Forest is heavily technology-based interactive, but more centered around nature and wildlife. Abstract motifs of recognizable animals and natural environments take the form of moving, interactive computer-generated murals on walls in addition to a plethora of other unique installations that must be seen to be believed. Appreciators of both the natural world and technological realm will appreciate the eccentric blend of the two with this exhibit.
Relocating to the actual outdoors, one should not miss a chance to see the unique scenery of the Sasaguri Kyudai Forest. This spot is located on the Western end of Kyushu University who also own the forest and use it for research purposes. It’s an ideal location for any nature-lover to have a nice stroll, and its most famous attraction is the section of bald cypress trees that are often submerged in water. Though this isn’t witnessable 24/7, it’s a distinct visual that will not be forgotten, especially during dawn or when a light mist rises from the water, creating a slightly eerie, yet charming scene. Even when the water is drained during drier periods, the distinct look of the fauna is enough to captivate visitors.
Fukuoka is also world-famous for its indulgent food culture. It’s best experienced in the district of Hakata, famous primarily for its food stalls, called yatai in Japanese.
The yatai are vibrant and lively at night especially, serving a variety of beloved street foods like yakitori, yakiton, and okonomiyaki. Stop by one of the stalls and enjoy a chat with the locals and authentic food in an open-air, energetic environment!
Additionally, no trip to Hakata is complete without Tonkotsu ramen. Made from simmered pork bones, it is world-renowned for its rich, silky broth. Oftentimes, the noodles served with Tonkotsu are of the thinner variety, served al dente (katame in Japanese), and topped with roasted chashu pork and other delicious additions.