Ashikaga School
Ashikaga School (Ashikaga Gakko in Japanese) about 90 minutes from Tokyo is the site of Japan's oldest and most distinguished Confucian academy, and is beautiful in its setting.
Ashikaga Gakko (Ashikaga School) 足利学校
Ashikaga Gakko, Confucian Temple at left, Hojo building at right.
The Ashikaga Gakko (Ashikaga School) is a former academy in Ashikaga, Tochigi prefecture, that centuries ago was the top educational institution in Japan, akin in status to today's Tokyo University.
The Jesuit missionary to Japan, Francis Xavier (1506-52) described the Ashikaga School as the foremost of Japan's eleven academies. Early European maps of Japan, from over 500 years ago, while depicting Japan as a largely uncharted blob, nevertheless have Ashikaga Gakko marked on them as Japan's most notable university.
History of Ashikaga Gakko
Ashikaga Gakko Gate
Ashikaga Gakko's roots are unclear, but a widely accepted theory is that it dates originally from the ninth century, fell into disuse, and was restored in the 14th century by the Muromachi era samurai and government official, Norizane Uesugi (1410-66) who is recognized today as the school's main patron.
At its peak, Ashikaga Gakko had over 3,000 students, from all over Japan, who studied the writings of Confucius, Zhuang Zhou and other Chinese scholars, the I-Ching, as well as divination, medicine and warfare. Tuition was free, but most students were inducted into the Buddhist priesthood upon entering. The books that formed the basis of learning were collected mainly by Norizane Uesugi, and many are still there today.
It was officially a school until 1872, although had fallen into disuse before then, with just a few buildings remaining and the gardens in disrepair. It was not until that 1990 most of its buildings were rebuilt and the grounds relandscaped in the style they were in the Edo era, about 300 years ago.
Ashikaga Gakko has been officially designated a Japan Heritage site under the Japan Heritage System that began in 2015.
Ashikaga Gakko Features
Ashikaga Gakko landscaped hillocks with Hojo in background.
The Ashikaga School is on a large, square 8.5 hectare (21 acre) site, which, however, is said to be only half of its original size. The edges of the site are grassy embankments, and three sides are surrounded by a small moat. Large sections of the grounds have been landscaped into ponds, gardens and hillocks. The beauty of the kempt gardens, waterways and trees make Ashikaga School almost as much a park experience as a historical attraction.
You first enter through the Nyutoku-mon Gate, dating from 1668, which takes you along a short walkway with the ticket office on your right, and a statue of Confucius on your left, then a small inari "fox" shrine. ('Inari' is the god of rice, and foxes are the god's messengers.) You then cross the small moat and enter the compound itself through the Gakko-mon ("School Gate").
On entering, you will notice the picturesque Southern Garden (Minami Teien) on your right, with its artificial hills, its rocks, lawn, shrubs and pond. On the edge nearest the entrance path is the Kanafurimatsu pine tree (or a descendant of the original) which students would tie intractable academic problems to and find them miraculously solved the next morning.
Ashikaga Gakko South Garden.
Ashikaga Gakko Temple of Confucius
To your left on entering is the library, nestled among trees. This is a 1915 reconstruction on the site of the original library. Just to the right of the library entrance, surrounded by bamboo, is a Chinese pistache tree planted at the time of the library's reconstruction from a sapling taken from the Cemetery of Confucius in Qufu, Shandong, China.
Straight ahead of the Gakko-mon Gate is another gate, the Kyodan-mon, through which is the Temple of Confucius. Dating from 1668, this is said to be the oldest extant Temple of Confucius in Japan, and houses images of the great man.
The Hojo is the large thatched building to the right of the Temple of Confucius. The Hojo building dominates the space in front of the South Garden, and was the main school building. At the entrance is the Yuza-no-ki water balance, a cup suspended over water. The aim is to ladle water in slowly to right the balance of the cup, which is lopsided when empty, without letting it spill. It thus teaches the Confucian virtue of "slowly but surely."
Ashikaga Gakko yuzanoki water balance
The Hojo is high-ceilinged and spacious inside, with tatami mat flooring. It contains a corner of exhibits relating to the history of Ashikaga Gakko. From inside the Hojo you can look out over the other garden in the compound, the Northern Garden (Kita Teien), which is right behind it.
Next door to the Hojo is the Kuri, another imposing thatched building, which was where daily life activities such as cooking and bathing happened.
The Shoin study room, a separate structure with a shingled roof, is behind the Kuri.
After exiting the Hojo, you might like to walk around the back of the compound, past the Kita Teien and round behind the Temple of Confucius, to absorb the quietude of the site, which is not so present around the front.
Ashikaga Gakko thatched hut beside the Kuri, with storehouse in background.
Hours
Ashikaga Gakko is open every day of the week, but closed on the third Monday of each month. However, it is open if Monday is a national holiday and, in such cases, closed on the next day, Tuesday. It is also closed December 29 - 31.
Hours are 9 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. April to September; 9 p.m. to 4 p.m. October to March.
Entry Fee
Entry is 420 yen for adults, 210 yen for high school pupils, free for others. The entry fee can be paid using a Suica or Pasmo card.
Access
Ashikaga Gakko is 10 minute's walk from JR Ashikaga Station (on the Ryomo line), and 15 minutes' walk from Tobu Ashikagashi Station (on the Isesaki line).
Nearby Attractions
The Ashikaga Information and Communication Space is a short walk from Ashikaga Gakko, and is a recommended stop before doing any sightseeing in Ashikaga.
Bannaji Temple is right next door to Ashikaga Gakko.
