Nagasaki City Highlights What to See and Eat In Nagasaki

Nagasaki City Highlights: What to See and Eat In Nagasaki 長崎

• Former Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank
• Meganebashi
• Oura Cathedral
• Saint Kolbe Museum
• Twenty Six Martyrs
• Peace Memorial Hall
• Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum
• Mount Inasa
• Nagasaki Peace Museum
• Prefectural Art Museum
• Glover Garden
• Suwa Shrine
• Sofukuji
• Recommended Places To Eat

By Christopher KL Lau

For centuries, Nagasaki was the window to Japan for the rest of the world and vice versa.

As a port city, Nagasaki opened up in the late 16th century for trade and cultural exchanges with an ever curious outside world.

When the Tokugawa Shogunate sealed off Japan for nearly two hundred years, it was Nagasaki, which was left open to continue making limited contact with the rest of the world.

The countries which built the strongest and most enduring ties with Japan were Portugal, Spain and China.

Thus, Nagasaki would soak up these external influences which, in turn, were mixed in with Japanese traditions making for an interesting blend of cultures which still influence Nagasaki to this day.

These days, Nagasaki, has managed to preserve its trading roots and still maintains many of the old European style buildings which made up the original Nagasaki Foreign settlement.

Nagasaki city itself is a medium sized city and all its main attractions are either within walking distance or a street car ride away. Here are several things which discerning visitors can see, do and eat in Nagasaki over the course of a few days.

Former Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank

The Former Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank Nagasaki Branch

Within the original Nagasaki foreign settlement was even a bank which was the first foreign bank in the city.

The classically designed building still stands how it was on its completion back in 1904. The current site is now a museum which stresses the importance of the bank for commerce and trading back when it was first established.

The museum displays old coins and notes and has video and audio footage explaining the history of the bank and those who worked and visited it as Japan opened up to the world.

There are also exhibitions related to the famed revolutionary Sun Yet Sen and the architect, Kikutaro Shimoda who designed the original building.

Address: 4-27 Matsugaeda-machi, Nagasaki City

Meganebashi (Spectacles Bridge)

Meganebashi (Spectacles Bridge)

In the centre of Nagasaki city runs the Nakashima River, and across this waterway are a series of ancient bridges. The most famous bridge along this pathway is the renowned Meganebashi Bridge which, both from a distance and up close, looks like a set of glasses or spectacles which is where the name is derived from. The bridge is built from stone and dates way back to 1634.

The design of the river and bridge is such that visitors can walk down to water level and have the bridge looming over them in the background.  On one side of the bridge, Kawabata Street, visitors can visit the Coffee Beans Herb and Vintage Tea Craft where a variety of different teas and beans can be enjoyed.

Address: Uonomachi, Nagasaki, 850-0874, Japan

Oura Cathedral

Oura Cathedral

Religion has played a large part in Nagasaki's history. It was in 1562 that Catholicism was first introduced to Japan, however, less than 100 years later Christianity was effectively banned throughout the entire nation for many years by the shogunate during the Edo Period.

Some Christians continued to practice their religion as "Hidden Christians" at various sites across Nagasaki and the wider countryside. As these restrictions were finally lifted, many of the "Hidden" Christians were free to practice in public and without fear of repercussions for adherence to their faith.

One predominant structure is Oura Cathedral which was built in 1864 and was constructed for overseas workers who lived in the foreign settlement. The cathedral is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is Japan's oldest wooden church.

It still attracts many visitors keen to see the church's role in the revitalization and spread of Christianity in Japan.

Address: 5-3 Minamiyamatemachi, Nagasaki, 850-0931

Saint Kolbe Museum

On the way up the hill to Oura Church is the Kolbe Museum dedicated to the Polish priest Maximilian Kolbe (1894 - 1941).

Kolbe first moved to Japan in 1930 and founded a Franciscan monastery on the outskirts of Nagasaki, which was to survive the Atomic Bombing.

After his return to Poland, Kolbe was arrested by the Gestapo and imprisoned in Auschwitz. He took the place of a man sentenced to death by starvation and was finally executed by the Nazis.

Kolbe was canonized in 1982. The museum is dedicated to the life and work of a man much revered by many people in Japan.

Address: 2-6 Minami Yamatemachi, Nagasaki 850-0931, Nagasaki City

Twenty Six Martyrs Church Memorial

The Twenty Six Martyrs Church Memorial, St Philip's Church (Nishizaka Church)

The Twenty-Six Martyrs Church is dedicated to St Philip of Jesus, who is listed as a martyrs in the cause of disseminating Christianity in Japan. In the foreground of the church is the striking memorial to the group of Catholics who were executed by crucifixion on February 5, 1597.

Opposite the memorial are twenty six trees planted in honour of the victims. The twenty six included twenty Japanese, four Spaniards, an Indian born of Portuguese descent and one Mexican. The story has been retold in the novel Silence by Endo Shusaku and the 2016 movie of the same name directed by Martin Scorsese.

The church was built in 1962 by the architect Kenji Imai and is striking even from a distance for its unique design and layout.

The towers which rise from the church represent the communication between god and people. The one on the left is known as the 'Tower of our Lady' and this is meant to show prayers ascending to heaven. The one on the right is dedicated to the 'Holy Spirit' which is meant to symbolise 'Grace' falling down from the sky towards those whom visit the site.

Inside the small church are historical relics and bones of three Jesuits amongst the 26 martyrs and these include: Paul Miki, Jacob Kisai and John Goto.

The grounds of the church and the interior have a calm and peaceful atmosphere.

Address: 7-8 Nishizaka-Machi, Nagasaki City 850-0051

Nagasaki National Peace Memorial Hall

Nagasaki National Peace Memorial Hall for Atomic Bomb Victims

Nagasaki will forever be connected to its recent history and the Atomic bomb that exploded over the city at 11:02 am on August 9th 1945.

The dropping of the bomb has indelibly shaped the city in its present day form and is part of the mind-set and psyche of the people; life has moved on, though it is also important to remember what has happened in the past. The Nagasaki National Peace Memorial Hall is a quiet and somber place which both commemorates those whom passed away and promotes the importance of peace and harmony around the world.

The upper level is a memorial sculpted in a 'Basin' shape filled with water. The significance of the water is that the survivors could not find this precious substance in the immediate aftermath of the explosion. The water in the basin is now in 'abundance' and 'permanent'. At night, the site is beautifully lit up and a place of contemplation for all who stroll around it.

Directly below is the Remembrance Hall with pillars which holds up the structure from the inside. There is also a registry of names of the victims and in the adjoining rooms are information areas filled with eye witness accounts along with video and audio testimonies. The memorial hall has leaflets and pamphlets explaining the history of the event and visitors can stay as long as they wish to scan through computer records and past articles.

Address: 7-8 Hiranomachi, Nagasaki, 852-8117

Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum has more in-depth historical information on the build-up to and the aftermath of the second Atomic bomb to be dropped on Japan in 1945. The museum has a well curated archive of videos, photos and everyday items which capture life in Nagasaki before and after the dropping of the bomb. Some of the exhibitions share the stories of survivors and even quotes from those whom helped to develop the bombs yet were opposed to the actual use of them as weapons.

The exhibitions also emphasise the need for peace and chronicles the efforts by nations in the recent times to abolish the use of nuclear weapons. Visiting the museum is a sobering though necessary experience as it gives insight to those whose lives were forever affected by the bomb.

The events of that fateful day are forever seared into the minds of the citizens of the city and those who have made it their life mission to promote peace and love around the world. Close by and outside the museum is the park which has many memorials and statues from around the world as symbols of peace and contemplation. Visitors are also be able to walk to the location where the bomb detonated 500 meters above Matsuyama in Nagasaki city.

The park encompasses some of the 2.5 kilometer radius of the hypocenter which was completely devastated yet where life now blooms with the many cherry trees that thrive as a symbol that life has to continue and that there can life after such events. On November 24, 2019, Pope Francis himself visited the park and made a speech and laid his own wreath in memory of all the victims of that day.

Address: 7-8 Hiranomachi, Nagasaki, 852-8117

View from Mount Inasa

Mount Inasa

For an overall and panoramic view of the city, visitors can journey up to Mount Inasa. Mount Inasa is a three hundred plus meter high mountain close to Nagasaki's main JR station.  From the top of the mountain, visitors have a 360 degree view of the city and in 2012, the Nagasaki evening view of the glittering city below was voted one of the three best night views in the world along with Hong Kong and Monaco.

The summit can be reached by ropeway, bus or car and offers great views over the city at all times of the day. The ropeway is the most entertaining way to reach the top of the mountain and takes about five minutes. Upon arrival, visitors can walk through the "Hikari' tunnel which is a dazzling array of lights which in turn leads to the main viewing tower. At the top is the "Hikari" restaurant based in the viewing tower roof as well as the 'Promise Heart' where lovers can pledge their love to each other with the perfect view to do so.

From one side of the top, visitors are able to see Gunkanjima, Takashima, Iojima and other distant islands such as the Goto Islands.

The top of mountain is also accessible by car and buses 3 and 4 from Nagasaki Station. For the best view, it is recommended to go during the evening just for the night view though it is best to bundle up as it can be very cold and windy once you get to the top.

Address: Nagasaki Nagasaki-shi Asahimachi 8-23

Nagasaki Peace Museum

Nagasaki Peace Museum

The Peace Museum was established in 2003 and  promotes the importance of global peace. It is a venue for all types of exhibitions, lectures and concerts.

The contemporary building was designed by Tetsuo Furuichi and allows visitors to enjoy a quiet space where they can both rest their minds and think about the importance of peace and harmony.

The pathway to the building is known as the "Path to Peace" which symbolizes the road to different cultures and is made up of forty pieces of footprints made by young children at the location of the Hypocenter.

Address: 7-15, Matsugaecho, Nagasaki, Nagasaki Prefecture

Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum

Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum

Standing right next to Seaside Park is a permanent celebration of both the modern and traditional art scenes in Nagasaki. The curators of the Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum believe that the building itself is designed to keep 'evolving' and is 'respiring' art in and out.

For the organizers, the museum 'breaths in' information and 'exhales' and diffuses this to all visitors. The interior uses space wisely and the entrance basks in natural light while the long corridors overlook the canals and garden park areas of the port city.

At the time of my visit, the Suma collection by the late Mr. Yakichiro Suma was on and features his huge collection that he curated as a special 'Envoy' (some say spy!) while in Spain during World War Two.

Address: 2-1 Dejimamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0862, Japan

Glover Garden

Glover Garden

Glover Garden and Glover House is located at the top of Minami-Yamate hill and offers a stunning view of the harbour below. Within the gardens are several old houses which date back to the foreign settlement and the site is named after Thomas Glover (1838-1911), a merchant who moved to Nagasaki from China after the opening of its port to foreign trade in 1859.

Glover House and Garden is now a World Heritage Site and is beautifully maintained all year round with colourful flowers and carefully sculpted trees.

Address: 8-1 Minamiyamatemachi, Nagasaki, 850-0931, Japan

Stop Lion at Suwa Shrine

Nagasaki Suwa Shrine

Suwa Shrine was constructed in 1625 and is famed for being three shrines joined together as one. The Suwa shrine is now seen by some as a place for protection against negative energy and bad influences. At the shrine itself, the shrine has assets in the form of a Noh mask and accompanying costumes and numerous stone guardian lions known as Komainu to protect the site from evil spirits. The shrine is also famed for hosting New Year celebrations when people come to pray for luck and good fortune for the rest of the year.

Address: Kami-Nishiyama-Cho 3, Nagasaki

Sofukuji Temple

Sofukuji Temple

Quintessentially a Chinese temple, Sofukuji was built in 1629 and still stands in its original form. Upon arrival via the long staircase at the entrance is the temple's striking red Daiippomon (first gate) which along with the Aiyuhoden (main hall) are deemed National Treasures to be preserved and cherished. The temple is a perfect place to seek solace and peace of mind far from the busy streets.

Address: 7-5 Kajiyamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0831, Japan

Where to Eat in Nagasaki

Nagasaki, with its favorable position next to the sea, is perfectly placed in terms having an ample supply of fresh seafood straight from the source. The most popular local delicacy is Champon, a mix of ramen noodles blended with pork, seafood and vegetables. Given its history of mixing different cultural influences, Nagasaki can offer a wide array of cuisines and dishes. One such cultural blend is Castella which was brought over from Portugal. This desert is widely available in Nagasaki and is made from eggs, sugar and flour.

Here are some places to try the best cuisine that Nagasaki can offer.

Nagasaki-Ko set lunch

Nagasaki Dejima Wharf

For those who enjoy a simple quiet meal and coffee whilst overlooking calm waters, venture down to Nagasaki Dejima Wharf which is about fifteen minutes on foot from JR Nagasaki Station. Across the length of the wharf there are many dining highlights including both Attic Coffee and Seafood Restaurant Nagasaki-Ko which were both brimming with customers on our visit.

The latter was one of the most popular restaurants at the wharf as it offered different types of fresh seafood sets and had outdoor dining as an option. The portions are large and visitors can even pick their choice of seafood from a display tank. The Wharf is a two-minute walk from Dejima streetcar station.

Address: Nagasaki Port Harbour

Shinchi Chinatown

Shinchi Chinatown

For visitors looking for authentic Chinese food head down to Nagasaki's large Chinatown which has an array of restaurants which offer everything from Pork buns to Sara-udon and Champon as well as different types of Chinese cuisine from all over China.

Address: Shinchi China Town Streetcar Station

Fruit & Cafe Hamatsu

Fruit & Cafe Hamatsu

For some of the best dessert in Nagasaki try Fruit and Cake Hamatsu which offers a variety of cakes, ice-creams and sorbets filled to the brim with different types of delicious fruits.

The portions are large and each offering uses fresh fruit prepared in front of customers. The prices are reasonable and the staff happy to make recommendations on what to eat and drink.

Address: Hamanomachi, Shopping Arcade

Yossou

Yossou

Touted as the best restaurant in Nagasaki, Yossou mixes old style exterior and interior decor with a menu and food selection which dates back roughly 150 years. First opened in 1866, Yossou has built both a regional and global reputation and is now cited as being the very first Chawanmushi specialty restaurant in Japan. Visitors can sample the finest Chawanmushi and Mushizushi dishes as well as a Yossou set meal which includes sea eel, prawns, chicken, shiitake, jellyfish, ginkgo, bamboo shoots and kamaboko. All the dishes are created with the freshest of ingredients by expert chefs. There is always a long line to get a table so it is best to set aside some time before you venture to Yossou.

Address: 8-9 Hamamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0853, Japan

Osakaya

Osakaya

For some local Wagyu dishes we recommend Osakaya restaurant which offers traditional Japanese fare in some very comfortable and cosy surroundings. The dishes are prepared by chefs who stand right in front of you to prepare the food. We recommend the pork cutlet and grilled eel selection which were both incredibly filling.

Address: Hamanomachi, Shopping Arcade

Nikuzushi

Nagasaki Nikuzushi

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the main shopping district is Nagasaki Nikuzushi. Here, visitors can taste the locally renowned "Nagasaki Wagyu" where customers can cook and grill their own cuts. Nagasaki Prefecture is famed for Japanese beef cattle which produce a healthy and balanced form of red meat famous for its savory taste or umami.

Address: 11-12 Hamamachi | Shichifuku Bldg.1F, Nagasaki City 850-0853

Umaya

Umaya

For filling lunch and dinner sets then Umaya offers some of the best pork cutlet dishes in Nagasaki. In some restaurants, set dishes can be disappointing due to small portions though at Umaya the sets were impressive in both taste and size. There are unlimited rice refills to make this place a cheap and satisfying place to visit.

Address: 5th Floor, AMH Nagasaki 1-1 Onoemachi, Nagasaki City

Nosa An Restaurant

Nosa An Restaurant

Nosa An specializes in seafood and has a quiet setting in which visitors can slowly sample and taste different specialities. One such dish is Hanamori which is sliced, raw fish which can come in a set for two people for a reasonable 3,200 yen. The eatery is also known for its deep fried lotus root with pepper which is both crispy and crunchy and beef tongue soft boiled stew. The price is quite reasonable and the interior is clean, comfortable and modern with a pleasant atmosphere for casual wining and dining.

Address: 6-54 Kajiyamachi, Nagasaki 850-0831 Nagasaki Prefecture

Access

From Nagasaki Station there are JR trains to Hakata Station in Fukuoka for Shinkansen connections to Yamaguchi, Hiroshima and Osaka, Kumamoto and trains to Oita.

From Nagasaki to Kagoshima take a Kamome Limited Express bound for Fukuoka, and change at Shin-Tosu for the Kyushu Shinkansen.

Journey time is about 3 hours. From Nagasaki to Hakata (Fukuoka) the Kamome Limited Express takes two hours.

Nagasaki Station also serves local JR trains going to Isahaya, Omura, Huis Ten Bosch, Haiki and Sasebo as well as Kikitsu, Hizen-Yamaguchi, Saga, and Tosu.

There are connections to Tokyo, Osaka, Kagoshima, Okinawa and other destinations from Nagasaki Airport.

Nagasaki Airport is about 40km from the city center and buses take about an hour from outside Nagasaki Station.

The nearest large international airport is in Fukuoka.