Discovery of the city of Iga Ueno 伊賀上野
Visit the ninja village of Iga Ueno
Located in the province of Mie, Iga Ueno was the birthplace of the famous poet Matsuo Basho and is renowned as the "ninja homeland". Ninja museum, Basho's birthplace, fortified castle, a school for sons of samurais: this is a visit filled with history... Iga Ueno City was born from the merger of Ueno City and surrounding villages in Mie Prefecture. The name "Ueno" being very widespread in Japan, we preferred to add "Iga", the name of a former province of Mie.
Remnants of the past
Iga Ueno Castle (Iga Ueno jo)
Also known as Hakuho (White Heron Castle), it was built at the end of the 16th century. Expanded later, the highest ramparts in Japan are built there, which are more than 30 meters on the west side. In 1612, only added a keep which was destroyed shortly after and which was only rebuilt in 1935, in wood, as originally. It now houses a small museum displaying objects, weapons, and armor from the time when the Iga clan reigned over the region.
Ueno Castle is located in a very pleasant park bearing the same name.
Practical information :
Open from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.
Closed from December 29 to 31
Admission 600 yen
The old Sukodo school (Kyusukodo)
This school was built in 1821 for the sons of samurai from the current provinces of Mie, Nara, and Kyoto. The original building was destroyed by a great earthquake in 1854 but was rebuilt in the 1860s. Transformed into a library during the 20th century, it is now open to visitors as a national historic site.
The building gives a good insight into the architecture of the Edo period (1603-1868). Two small gardens add to the charm of the place.
Practical information :
Open from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm.
Closed on Tuesdays (except public holidays) and from December 29 to January 3.
Admission 200 yen
honor to ninja
The Iga-ryu ninja museum
In the Middle Ages, the city of Ueno was famous for its school, one of the two best in Japan, which trained the famous Japanese spies, now known worldwide as the ninja.
Proud of its past, the city opened a museum, Le musée ninja d'Iga, in 1964. You can discover a traditional ninja house there. The latter can be visited alongside a real ninja woman who reveals all its secrets to visitors: hiding places, rotating walls, secret corridors, and other tricks.
female ninja
pixabay
He passed by here...
iganinja
A gallery hosts more than 400 objects and weapons used by ancient Japanese spies and documents on the art of ninjutsu (a set of arts and techniques used by ninjas). The Iga-ryu ninja museum is located on the castle grounds.
In addition, Iga Ueno organizes ninja-themed events every spring: Mie Prefecture Grand Festivals
Following in the footsteps of Basho
Matsuo Basho (1644-1694), is one of the most famous Japanese poets, especially in the field of haiku . His hometown pays homage to him through stones engraved with poems scattered here and there as well as various attractions.
Artwork by Matsuo Basho
public domain https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Basho_Horohoroto.jpg
The Basho Memorial Museum.
This is a small museum located on the grounds of Ueno Castle where scrolls with poems written by Bashô are exhibited as well as maps retracing his many travels. The museum is less than a five min walk north of Ueno-shi Station.
A little further east of the museum is Basho's birthplace (Basho-o Seika) which is unfortunately closed for renovations until March 2021.
In Ueno Park, the Haiseiden Pavilion is a recent hat-shaped building built to celebrate the 300th anniversary of the poet's birth. Every year in October, the "Festival of Basho" is organized there.
About a 20 min walk from the poet's birthplace, Minomushi-an is the only one of the five retreat places where the man of letters liked to retire, the others have been destroyed. It is a traditional house with a small garden perfect for a short stroll.
Statue of the poet Matsuo Basho
public domain https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Statue_of_Basho_Chusonji_Hiraizumi_DSCN5329_20080822.JPG
Cultural walk
The Danjiri Museum (Danjiri Kaikan)
This museum is dedicated to the Ueno Tenjin Festival which takes place every year from October 23 to 25. Three imposing danjiri ( tanks) and human-sized characters welcome visitors from the entrance. There are videos on this famous festival and in the city of Iga-Ueno. In the second room, are exposed masks of demons such as those used during the festival.
And, since we are in ninja country, young and old can rent costumes (from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm) at the museum and set off, dressed as a ninja, to explore the city.
Practical information :
Open from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.
Closed one day in April, the Sunday before October 25 and October 23 and 24, from December 29 to January 1.
Admission 600 yen
Mita-Gama pottery
Not far from Iga Ueno station, Mita-Gama is a small complex consisting of a studio and two galleries where you can admire pottery made by a family of local potters. Iga pottery, Iga-yaki, is a style of rustic pottery where the ceramic is fired at high temperatures, giving it a reddish hue, with brown-grey scorch marks. Iga-yaki uses clay originating from Iga.
Good to know: a 1750 yen ($14.25/13€) ticket gives access to the ninja museum, the castle, and the Danjiri museum.
Address, timetable & access
Address
Timetable
From Kyoto Station, take the JR Nara Line to Kizu (35 min) then the JR Kansai Line, and transfer at Kamo Station to Iga-Ueno (45 min). At Iga-Ueno Station, take the Iga Railway to Ueno-shi (5 min). Count about 2 hrs of a journey in all.
