Hakata-Ori: a wearable piece of tradition and history

The weaving of Hakata-Ori was developed hundreds of years ago and, thus, has become an iconic presence within traditional Japanese aesthetics. Take a look at the history of the famous textile and how it carries on into the modern day!

Obi belts made out of silk Hakata-Ori fabric

Obi belts made out of silk Hakata-Ori fabric

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The construction of this textile is largely characterized by a four-step-process:

  1. The design is mocked up on paper, portraying the pattern and coloration. 
  2. The fabric yarns, mosty silk for the most traditional and high-end of Hakata-Ori, are dyed by a designated craftsman. 
  3. The initial warp yarns are prepared and installed onto the loom.
  4. Finally, the weave yarns are prepared and then woven with the designated pattern in mind. 

While this is the general process for creating Hakata-Ori, there is, of course, more nuance in the process that provides the fabric with its distinct, heavy and ribbed texture. When tied up, it is difficult to come undone naturally, making it great for use in traditional Japanese-style knotted garments and belts. At its most traditional and authentic, Hakata-Ori is woven on a traditional Jacquard-style loom. 

There are two primary variations of Hakata-Ori: Kenjo-Gara and Mon-Ori. Kenjo-gara is the design most associated with Hakata-Ori, largely consisting of stripes going across the long piece of fabric and an interlacing diamond design going parallel. Mon-ori refers to Hakata-Ori that incorporate different colors. 

Loom for weaving Hakata-Ori

Loom for weaving Hakata-Ori

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Processed silk for weaving Hakata-Ori

Processed silk for weaving Hakata-Ori

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Located in Chikushino, it is the oldest textile company in the region. Nishimura takes much pride in this, dedicating themselves to traditional techniques well into the modern age. 

Nishimura allows for visitors to take a look at the process of making their renowned Hakata-Ori firsthand. The machines used for manufacture are out in the open and able to be looked at in detail, along with the yarns and dyes. A room dedicated to the traditional Hakata-Ori loom is also available for viewing. Also on site are the silkworm cocoons used for sourcing the raw silk used for the products. There are also a number of goods for sale at Nishimura. While their claim-to-fame is there obi belts for traditional Japanese clothing, small goods such as bags and coasters are also available. 

Nishimura Hakata-Ori, Fukuoka

Nishimura Hakata-Ori, Fukuoka

@Japan Experience

Silk cocoon for weaving Hakata-Ori

Silk cocoon for weaving Hakata-Ori

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Dyeing process for Hakata-Ori at Nishimura

Dyeing process for Hakata-Ori at Nishimura

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Processed and dyed silk for Hakata-Ori

Processed and dyed silk for Hakata-Ori

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Products made of Hakata-Ori at Nishimura

Products made of Hakata-Ori at Nishimura

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Coaster made by Nishimura Hakata-Ori

Coaster made by Nishimura Hakata-Ori

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Machines for production at Nishimura Hakata-Ori

Machines for production at Nishimura Hakata-Ori

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Traditional loom for creating Hakata-Ori

Traditional loom for creating Hakata-Ori

@Japan Experience

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